… Africa, Australia (+ New Zealand) and Asia

Bako & Niah Caves National Park

with 2 comments

After spending two nights in Kuching I realized that I did not have thaaat many days in Borneo altogether, so I had to move. Bako National Park seemed a brilliant idea at the moment and so I went.

Bako sunset

Bako sunset

There I stayed two nights out of the originally “planned” three. The reason is that the information about the tracks was not exactly accurate. Since the private company called Forestry took over the management of Sarawak’s national parks (2002), I am told and I can understand from what I saw that it is just not the same story. And I have to explain myself for saying this. The story goes that the first day I did the tracks; T. Pandan Kecil, T. Pandan Besar and T. Paku. All was well and I enjoyed myself a lot. I saw macacos and even bearded pigs. I met some nice people and had a swim in a beach just for myself. The second day I began walking at 10.00 and I was about to do the second biggest loop track of the forest. So I began. I took the Lintang track beginning from its south side with the intention of following the connecting Ulu Serait track. After finishing Ulu Serait too I realised I had to go back. But it was not easy to realize. I got lost for about two hours and needless to say I became very afraid. The good point here is that inside the dense and not-so-accesible-anymore thickets of the jungle I saw a proboscis monkey! It is not very easy to see so at least I was happy about that. When I finally came back backtracking (which I hate in trekking) I had a word with the rangers who told me that they did not know the path was closed. Oh well I thought, this is Malaysia. But I was wrong. This is privatization of public and natural resources for you! I strongly recommend to everybody visiting the park to double check on the paths with somebody that has already tried them. Later I found out that the path I tried to do yesterday it is only done by 2% of the visitors and that is why they did not bother telling everybody that it was not safe to go this way…

The other good thing coming out of the bad situation is that I met Rowan; an Australian guy that gave me the card of a couple of other Australians based in Miri. They were treasure hunters (shipwreck finders to be exact) and they wanted somebody as crew on their yacht. So after returning to Kuching I took the first flight to Miri. I was to spend a week living on their boat (see post to come).

While there and before we embarked, we visited the Niah Caves national park. That was very interesting as the park has one of the biggest caves in Borneo (both Malaysian and Indonesian).

Niah Caves

Niah Caves

The tribes that used to live in the park (before the privatization of their management – remember?) have a very interesting story behind them both in the paleolithic period and the contemporary one. For more information you can visit The Great Cave of Niah. It was indeed very interesting and I realised it had been a lot of time since I last visited a cave. Thanks for that Rose and Hans!


Written by csm2mk

May 30, 2009 at 12:58 PM

2 Responses

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  1. damn! I really want to go there….huff

    Great & Honor

    Deorc Regnboga


    November 24, 2009 at 9:11 PM

  2. you should. for me it was thanks to this park that my visit to Borneo was not in vain! thanks for passing by!


    November 25, 2009 at 8:33 PM

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