THE THREE ALPHA TRAVEL

During my stay in Kenya, I always heard that there is only one good bus company to go from Nairobi to Dar Es Salaam; if it was your first time traveling this trip that is. This was Scandinavia. It resulted difficult to find it though, as they had moved a bit outside the city centre. So I did not bother and used another company (Sabco). For 22 euros I would be in Dar Es Salaam directly (or that’s what I thought).

To cut the story short, it took me 22 hours to get there. It makes you wonder though… Cheap transport in Africa might be a bit dodgy and all but the roads remain the same. On the other hand side, the people are much more sociable in cheap transport. Depending what you want, you choose. The roads though… THEY remain the same. It was quite an experience when we got lost in some Masai lands just after the borders. The driver did not want to use the main road as too many cars were parked in the middle of it. So we improvised. After nearly destroying the tires and the chassis we got on the “main” road.

In other anecdotes I met a guy working in the same bus that used to be a sailor, so he was cursing in Greek to me for fun and a Rasta friend of Stephen’s (see Nairobi – The Eastlands post), who was giving the tickets out. He also gave me a reference to go visit a reggae station in Dar Es Salaam. This guy actually made me trust the company and travel with them in the first place.

In the course of the journey I socialized with various people and they were all nice and super polite to me. When I finally show the Scandinavia bus in the last stop we made before Dar, I was happy that I had taken Sabco. It was full of tourists and even if it was a bit more comfortable, I would still travel with Sabco again (saved me some money there too).

Now I am in Dar Es Salaam, where I live in a friend’s house (Dave’s). It was six years when I last saw him, we were flat mates in the UK during our student years… I will be based here until the 23rd and then off to J’Burg. In the meantime I am planning on visiting Zanzibar and maybe some other smaller islands on the north of Dar. I will include a trekking if possible, I just have to inform myself more on Tanzania.

In any case I will keep you posted. Until then, have a good life you all!

PS: Oh… one thing I really valued… even if organisation and discipline are not big with Africans, the solidarity and how they help each other in difficult situations are exemplary to us “Europeans”.

As much as I care to compare with other capitals, Nairobi city centre is a polluted, noisy and dirty city. It has a fame of being dangerous to the tourist (and obviously more to the touristy tourist) not so much in terms of physical harm but in terms of getting robbed. That’s why they also call it Nai-robbery. I luckily had no such experience, even if in my 2 first nights there I was circulating in the only place I should not have.

In any case, my visit to the Eastlands slums (as opposed to the Westlands rich area), would give me a more objective picture of Kenya.

My hosts were Stephen along with his flat mate David. Stephen is a clean-hearted 26 year old Rasta that does his best to help his community. In this case he definitely helped me as well. David is also a brilliant guy with a wife and a child daughter. I stayed two nights in their humble house and for once more I realized that money only make worry about it. In the slum, people are poor but they sure know how to smile. I also met Philip, an acrobat that just came back from the Canary Islands. They had a show there and will be going to Spain again to perform in Christmas.

The children were always shouting “muzungu!” (white) to me as I was the only not black person there. They learned my name and we played along for a bit. My feelings towards them are beyond my English skills to describe…

The story of the Eastlands is much like those of others slums and townships in Kenya. Houses made of clay and mud (at the very best), people only recently being introduced to money and still using the exchange system and the terrifying presence of churches and white priests all around. The church is the definite controller of the premises. If somebody has a car or better clothes than the normal he is either a gangster or church-related. In any case, the Eastlands will always remain in my heart, for ever.

Surely Obama’s presidency will not affect people from there, but they are surely happy about his election. Let us see what reality holds for them …

I have reached Nairobi after a night’s stay in Zurich.

Needless to stay it costed me more money to stay one night in Zurich than all the nights in Nairobi so far… But I suppose that is why “we” are civilised and “they” are not…

In any case my first night in Nairobi was the night of the US Elections… Obama’s mother is from a village nearby and all Kenya is celebrating the victory. Hopes are high. A change is in the air. Pollution as well. Unemployent too… and pressure from various “travel agents” to try their safari tours too. I mean… what’s the point chasing animals being inside a car? I don’t get it. I would definitely go trekking though. Let’s see what happens.

After changing a couple of hotels I am now living in Milimani Backpackers. A VERY recomended place if you are ever near Nairobi. Friendly people and logical tour prices. Safe and clean as well. Patricia is a real sweetheart running it. I have been collecting vital information for the rest of the trip too!

The next days I will go and stay with a friend, met in the Couchsurfing website. Then by the 10th of this month I will be taking a bus to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania.

Since the next time,

Best of wishes,

Mat

PS1: In the photography front, I am taking less photographs than I expected… but then again it is better to see than capture as they say. I will keep you posted when photos will be up.

PS2: I will try to post something more about Nairobi too. I just want to finish the trip first and… well… find a faster internet connection. Stay tuned!