THE THREE ALPHA TRAVEL

It happens when you have liked a place… and in this case Indonesia was the place to come back. Having visited Bali and Java, I “convinced” Noemi that Sumatra was perfect as the next destination. On arrival on Kuala Lumpur I found out that not all EU citizens have the same rights in Asia. Noemi as a Spanish citizen had to buy a flight out of Indonesia but I was OK without it (as I remembered correctly from my first visit)! So we did buy a ticket out to Kuala Lumpur again from Medan once more. Sumatra is huge (the 6th biggest island in the world) so having to fly from Medan (which was the point of entrance as well) would limit us and make us not reach all the way down south (pity). Oh well, in any case Sumatra was waiting for us!

Bukit Lawang jungle fever

First stop Medan (obviously) and from there the village of Bukit Lawang. It was a very nice surprise to be there. Amin and Rinto were our guides in what has been a full day trekking in the jungle of the village. We were lucky enough to see six orangutans in the wild too! The village was recently destroyed by floods but the resilience of the people living there, made them rebuild the most of it in 2 years! We had a great time and all I can hope for its future is less deforestation (by a company called London Sumatra Indonesia TBK) and more support for the rangers and the national park (well I said it but it sounds more like a prayer than anything else…).

Gunung Sibayak

Next stop; Berastagi and its volcanoes. To reach the town we had to backtrack to Medan and take another bus to there. In Berastagi we stayed in Losmen Sibayak, one of the few option in the noisy but rather cosy town. To climb Gunung Sibayak (Indonesia’s most accessible volcano as we were told) we had to try twice! The first day we took the wrong bus, but we did find some hot springs and soaked our bodies in it. The second time we had learned our lesson and took off the right point. The overall impression is a moderate one – if you have seen other volcanoes in Indonesia. Also the road up is mainly made for cars! After saying goodbye to Bonnie (our new friend in Berastagi) we would head out for Lake Toba – the biggest lake in Indonesia.

Danau Toba - Tomok

From Berastagi we go to Kabanjahe. From there it is a 3-hour journey to Simpang Raya and from there 1 hour to Parapat. From there and with a ferry to Tuk Tuk we were in the island of Samosir – the island in the middle of Lake (or Danau) Toba. There we just had to take a rest and staying the most of the days in Merlyn Homestay we did just that. Just in front of the lake, we would swim, walk, rent a bike (even if it did not last long – not used to it) and visit villages (like Tomok and Ambarita) and markets. What’s specific about the area is it’s Batak traditions and people with their strangely hatched houses and their beatiful music. I should not forget to mention that in Merlyn Guesthouse I ate the best BBQed fish (with some Batak sauce) in years!!! Thanks for that Rio.

Gunung Merapi - 2968 m

The transition to Bukittinggi was not that easy. We arrived to Parapat (the port of the lake) midday but the bus did not go until 22:30! So we wandered around for a bit, drinking a lot of… tea. After 15 hours we get there and we check in at Rajawali Homestay, owned by a German expat having married an Indonesian for the last 9 years. The main attraction here, the Merapi volcano, or else Gunung Merapi. We had heard a lot about it in Berastagi and we got ready to do it! The advice of Ulrich (Rajawali’s owner) was to do it Saturday so we hadn’t had to pay for a guide. The reason; many people are climbing it, mainly students and local groups. So we did. Along with us came a French couple and Jean, another French guy. I have talked before about French people always keeping me company when climbing volcanoes in Indonesia and I think this time I just proved myself right! We start climbing at 21:30 and reach near the top at about 02:00. There we have to make a fire as we freeze to death – clothes soaking wet. In the meantime we are followed by some Indonesians that protect and guide us at all times! How helpful they were! At about 04:00 in the morning we are up but the first light is not until 06:15! So we all hug together trying to keep warm. When the light comes it is beautiful… Besides the volcano, we visit a local traditional wedding party (more of a lunch) and walk a railway line from Padang Pajang to Limbau Anai. Very good times indeed…

Mount Tuju

Next and last stop before flying out of Sumatra (;(), is Kayu Aro or Kerinci as it is called in general. Kerinci is another volcano, this time of 3805 meters of altitude. We arrive there after 8 hours and check in – after finding it in the dark – at one of the most lovely and homely places I have been on this travel. Mrs Lucia, a catholic Indonesian is a great host and a most excellent cook. Gunung Kerinci is not meant to be climbed by us though. We are both feeling a bit ill and I have some infection on my right foot (which is now perfectly OK) so we just eat and rest well. Our last day there I climb Mount Tuju, an ex-crater now-lake of an easy ascent (about 3 hours). Here I also finish my book (“Dharma Bums”). On 12th of July we take a night bus to Padang and from there we fly to Medan. There we would stay one day and take the next morning flight to Kuala Lumpur….

Once more, having seen a bit of Sumatra, I have to say; Indonesia is a great place to be. Terima kasih banyak!!!

I never expected that Indonesia would be so captivating. Looking at the map and reading about it, I knew that in my 30 days the visa was allowing me to spend I had to choose between its islands. So I chose Bali and Java but the choice was not an easy one. Bali sounded too touristy, its south beaches being crowded with week enders from Australia and other places. Java had too many big cities and seemed like the industry centre of Indonesia. In the beginning, Sulawesi, Sumatra and Lombok or the Gili Islands were the first candidates but the problem of moving from one of those places to the other would have taken up some time. I reckon that finally I chose well and the two islands were the best introduction to Indonesia and thus to Southeast Asia. This does not mean I do not want to go back to the rest of them – I hope one day I do.

Indonesia Map

Choosing a low season and my destinations carefully I was able to avoid crowds of Westerners. To be more precise since Kuta I only met more than 2-3 Westerners at a time in Yogyakarta – which is pretty good for the distance. I guess it is like the Ramblas in Barcelona, everybody follows one road but many are afraid to turn down the corner, which works perfect for the rest of us wanting to do so.

Bali and Java, Java and Bali… its people and the nature, the people I have met travelling will definitely make it an experience to remember… but as it happens 30 days are just enough to get the country under your skin and then you have to go… the curse of the traveller, the visa dilemma. In any case, with Indonesia I had my first Zen travelling experience (I think). There was no good that was good enough and there was no bad that was bad enough. So easygoing… and even the hustles and the price bargaining are completely understandable – I much prefer a society that you can talk your way into and out of places and situations to this cold-blood credit card system we Westerners have. The simple pleasures of life are still alive there. Next time you say you are bored because “there is nothing to do” just think again. Is doing nothing really a waste of time?

Terima Kasih Indonesia!

Cianjur is famous for its rice and its beautiful girls. It is a sprawling centre and it is close to Cibodas – a place admire its botanical gardens and to start the climb of Gunung Gede; a nearly 4000 meter volcanic peak. Its local delicacy is the lontong, a dish of concentrated rice in coconut sauce. But all those reasons to visit this non-touristy town would not be enough for me to be here if it wasn’t for Yudi.

Yudi is a Javanese teacher (amongst other things) that has lived a lot of years in New Zealand. Coming back he wanted to do something for his community so he started his homestay programme. Having a network of friends and family houses, Yudi offers accommodation and three meals a day for the price of 12 USD. This is a very modest amount, taking into consideration that the experience includes teaching in schools, rice field or recycling station work and a visit to a different sight everyday. He has just finished writing a book that will be published this month – I will not be here to celebrate it but I wish him the best of luck with his venture.

The interest of the people to meet foreigners is really big. I have been both in a primary and a high school and the experience made me re-think my career (if any so far ). Depending on the way one travels he or she will experience things for the first time or not but one thing is for sure; the appreciation of home cooked meals and mingling with the locals. Also many travelers have this experience at the beginning of their visit to Indonesia, coming from Jakarta. For me it was my last stop and I reckon it helped me look back and evaluate my degree of experience and the proximity of what I lived to the real lives of the Indonesian people.

All in all it is highly recommendable. I know there are more people in Asia doing the running the same programmes so I suggested to Yudi the networking of all these efforts. Whatever attracts travelers without having a commercial outlook needs to be supported, especially in Southeast Asia. So go for it if you are in Java. And while at it give Yudi and his team my regards. I hope we meet again!

PS: Yudi’s email is westjava2002@yahoo.com for anyone interested in visiting or just helping out.

Java is the powerhouse of Indonesia so even before I visited it I knew I should avoid the cities. All Javanese cities are big due to the concentration of people looking for job opportunities. Its nature though is far from forgettable.

Arriving in Java from Gilimanuk in Bali, I had the luck to meet a gentleman that was taking the same train as me. By that time I did not know I was taking that train but having company helped form my decision. My first stop was Probolinggo and the train travel was my first taste of train transport in Indonesia (very sociable indeed). Also in Probolinggo I had my first experience of a becek (a tricycle taxi). Cemero Lawang was to be reached the next day – the village near the Bromo volcano.

Gunung Bromo

Both the village, the walks around it and Bromo volcano has been great! There I had the luck to meet two French guys who were to be my companions for the next trek, Francis and Mathieu. With Francis we start 02:30 so to reach the viewpoint on sunrise. By myself I walk until the lips of Bromo volcano and back. Great stuff and my first active volcano visit! Next was Bondowoso – my thought was to continue West but unexpectedly in the same hotel we find Mathieu that has already gone a day before! The guys are talking about the Ijen volcano; hold on… I did not know it even existed – so I change my plans; I will go back to the East with them to climb it. Such is the beauty of independent travel…

Ijen

To arrive to Ijen, we have to go through Senpol, a village in the area of Blawan, famous for its Javanese coffee variety. Too bad I have stopped drinking coffee a long time ago – the tea is equally nice though. In Senpol we stay in Katimore Homestay and after having walked a bit near the village we are to climb Ijen starting very early (again) in the morning. At 3:45 we commence the climb (3 km to the top). When reaching it, a rainbow is formed – a reward for our efforts? Ijen is a major sulfur extraction point. The people carry 75-kilo burdens on their shoulders – the climb up and down the volcano, then down the mountain to where we started. What a job! I try to lift one of them and it is impossible!!! On the way back we begin to walk to Blawan (a 17 km distance). Somewhere halfway we will be picked up by a cabbage track. After this it’s back to Bondowoso – the main hub to continue travelling. I do Bondowoso – Jember – Surabaya – Yogyakarta in one go and the guys continue to Bali. Safe travels to them!

Yogyakarta, Malioboro Street

Yogyakarta is the biggest city I have visited in Indonesia – not big at all compared with the other cities. I like it very much here and I walk a lot through the small streets that somehow remind me of Beijing and its “hutongs”. From here I will visit Borobudur and Prambanan and feel the hottest weather Indonesia has to offer with 38-39 degrees Celcius. I make up the rest of my trip – four days in Singapore and of to the Malaysian Borneo for a good twenty days. Sounds good to me!

My final stop is to be Cianjur at which I arrive through Bandung, changing trains. The reason of my visit to this completely non-touristic town is Yudi’s Homestay programme. But for this a special mention is worth it on the next post. Until then, be good!

Arriving in Kuta, I knew from the beginning there was nothing there to hold me for long – except the night. At the airport I shared a taxi with Joe and Ivan (USA & Serbia respectively). They were to be my companions for the next few days to come. Kuta is the epitome of the Australian and/or British weekend paradise. So we took off soon. It’s only merit maybe; a familiarization with the food names and a general introduction to Bahasa Indonesia.

Kuta's alternative name?

Ubud was the second stop. Very much nicer than Kuta – but still a bit more crowded with white people than my liking – it was the perfect trip to appreciate Bali and its nature. Its suburbs were the very first rice fields I would see in my life and since then only in Indonesia I have seen many more. The green is lush and everything is blooming. It is the end of the wet season and the start of the dry one. We visited the Monkey Forest and had a first very close approach with those humanoids. Their expressions are just staggering. The real fun begun when we rented some bikes and we went exploring. We saw the temples Goa Gajah, Purah Penatouran Sasih (the Moon Temple) and some kind of way arriving very late the Gunung Kawi. The latter overalls all the experience as it was full of rain and running through deserted streets. Good stuff!

Monkey Forest, Ubud

After this I had to separate from the guys. I was to go to Tirta Gangga through Candidasa. It was the place I wanted to be in the first place and I was right! It still remains in my heart and many of the Indonesians I meet have never heard of it! In the shadow of the Gunung Anung volcano this rice field paradise is a small village (more like a parking lot with hotels and warungs/restaurants) with smiling people and open hearts. Its water palace is a perfect place for medidation and my breakfasts were just beside it! I walked as much as I could through the rice fields, I got lost, got helped by the local people, got barked at by the local dogs and finally had a hard time to have to go from the place. It’s just made me understand once more that in this trip, big cities were not in the schedule…

Tirta Gangga, The Waters of Ganges

One sunny morning I took a bemo (public bus) to Amed. The beach was next! Nice place and very pleasant people along with the fact that it was low-season made me have a nice couple of days there. I stayed in Osa Hotel. It is to have a reggae bar so I left a mixed CD that I had – I hope they play it when they finish the bar! The surroundings in Amed are brilliant – a combination of palm trees and beech forest and the sea is warm but still refreshing. I spent much time talking with the local children about their dreams, their studies, their lives in Indonesia and what they think of strangers… It was to be the place of my 30th birthday too!

One of the beaches, Amed

I had to pass from Singarajah (meaning the Lion King) to reach Lovina, another watering place. There the highlight was Harris; the owner of Harris Homestay and his German wife Bety. A real artist and a kind person we sat down and talked about all things Indonesia. He showed me his art; tatooes, paintings and T-shirt designs. I can’t thank them enough for their hospitality and after gathering useful information about Java I headed off for the Gilimanuk port. Java was to come.

Hitching a ride...

This is from Blawan going to Bondowoso… we did it on top of a track full of cabbages – not the best thing for your back

If you wanted to know if I am OK in my health this photo will reassure you that YES I am better than any other time in my life. Be good now… ciao!