THE THREE ALPHA TRAVEL

My stay in Africa was special. Not so much because of the amount of time that I have spent there (from 3rd November to 23rd December) but mainly because of the people I met and the special “occasions” my visit was in synch with.

To begin, on my first day in Kenya, it happens to be the US election day. Barack Obama wins and a hopeful Kenya and Africa in general is looking forward to change. I heard and saw opinions and behaviours of the people in the slums (Eastlands) and the people in the city (Nairobi). This would later be compared with my visit to Tanzania and the views of people of higher status – such as my friend’s Dave and his family’s. Last but not least comes the visit to South Africa, a different world altogether compared to the rest of the continent but also different in its own context when moving from Cape Town (capital) to the smaller villages out in the country. The special “occasion” here would be the schizm in the ANC party due to Mbeki’s resignation as president in 2008. In the next elections, South Africa is facing the most historic moment since Mandela’s one and this shows on the people.

Result? Well, on some things I stay put to the image I had before my visit. On others, I can now understand the significant value of the difference of definitions of same words between Africa and Europe. Those would be “revolution”, “late” or even “friend” amongst others. Altogether though, I confirm that the social and economical problems of Africa once more come from the same “devils” who create them in Europe.

An example for the first case would be the so-called “second apartheid” period in South Africa. In Europe we know that blacks were killing blacks and that’s it. This is how they “advertise” it on the media. WRONG. To me it is just like any other immigration situation. Local people are afraid to lose their jobs because of “outsiders” who are in need of one. In other words, the same thing that happens in Greece, Spain, Italy or Germany the last decade. Money is the issue once more. Tribalism and corruption  just add an itchy flavour to it. Neo-liberal politics are those that created the problems in the first place and of course people, in their majority, are not educated enough to tackle them. Would they ever LET them be? I do not think so, even though I was told and I could see there is a steady but slow change on that front. The “first” world countries have had this “playground” for a long time now and they are not willing to give it up. The NATO presence is also a big problem and has always been. Who does not remember the Rwanda genocide of the Tutsi tribe only having taken place because of NATO forces had retreated? “Those are the orders” they said. Those are and have been neo-liberal politics ALWAYS. Why do they not kick Mugabe out then? In either cases “peace” was not kept.

An example for the second case would be the way things are done in Africa. The “rebels” are not always the rebels. They might as well be just the opposition party trying to get to power. So in Europe we would call them “running for elections”. Robert Mugabe (Zimbabwe) or Zuma & Mbeki from the ANC (South Africa) would sometimes call their opposers “rebels” just to illegalize them and therefore victimize them, creating a hostile atmosphere and thus violence on the streets. “Late” can also mean VERY late, but I guess I wish this was the only problem. Also the word “friend” can be used with different meanings throughout Africa. Finally the importance of how easy are guns found and sold cannot be underlined sufficiently.  South Africa especially suffers from this and taking Jo’Burg out, which would be to take a lot of violence out, even safer places will hold surprises for the visitor or the local.

All and all though, Africa has always been a rough diamond. Beautiful but rough. I have an urge to go again and learn more. To the people I met I wish them the best and thank them. If they sometime travel to Europe I will do my best to help them. If I ever go back I will sure drop them a line.

The big plan for South Africa was yet to come. I had dreamt of doing the south coast of South Africa, had seen photos of the Garden Route, the Sunshine Coast and Wild Coast and of course wanted to see Cape Town. Cape Town was the center of operations. We would go all the way to Coffee Bay and come back to Cape Town before flying to Jo’Burg to leave for Australia.

Now to do this there were two ways. The Baz Bus and renting a car. The second option was only made possible because of Noemi. She can drive, I can’t. It was also cheaper than the Baz Bus. So we chilled in Cape Town for two days were we stayed at the house of Leo (friend of Noemi’s). Really nice people that I would like to thank once more through here. We also coincide we the OBZ Festival in Cape Town, which gives us a very good taste of the nice atmosphere of the people of the town.

On the 8th of December we begin. The route until destination was: Cape Town – Mossel Bay (food) – Buffalo Bay (1 night) – Jeffrey’s Bay (food) – Grahamstown (1 night) – King William’s  Town (food and supplies) – Coffee Bay (5 nights)

Coffee Bay proved to be a real paradise with two backpackers’s really including the local community and spreading the word and hospitality. The local Xhosa people were also a very interesting find. The most important though was the nature and especially the beaches.

On the way back we did the following route: Coffee Bay – Chintsa West (1 night) – Hamburg (2 nights) – Buffalo Bay (3 nights). It was more relaxed as we knew we wanted to see better places that we passed by briefly on the way out.

Finally we return to Cape Town full of memories and pictures we’ll never forget. The South Coast is a real gem, presenting a more real face of what SA is (more than J’Burg anyways). I buy a small djembe from Patrick (Leo’s flatmate). It is later confiscated by the Australian customs but only for cleaning. I will have to take it back paying a fine of 60 AUD. Thinking positevely; I do not have to carry it to Byron Bay…

I am know in Australia – Byron Bay but before I post anything about this, I would like the next post to be a summary of some thoughts on Africa – I feel I have to do it as I owe this continent much gained experience and also for the good of my personal record of course

Until the next one then.

Enjoy the holidays and Merry Christmas!!!

So here we are in Jo’Burg. A friend from Spain has joined so I will have company until I fly out to Australia.

We have arrived in Airport Backpackers, a place 2km near the airport that actually proved to be a really good idea. There we meet Poul, a tour guide and a safari operator. The next day we are trying the Backpackers Ritz but there is no many things to do around as I guess it is dangerous enough for us to go out of the hostel. So we have to fly out of Jo’burg. We try the one day tour in Soweto and Apartheid museum. Very interesting indeed. Soweto for its history and its role in the apartheid – abolishment process and the museum for its many details and historical accuracies.

The most interesting though was yet to come. A five day safari in Kruger park has been a real experience. Personally I am not a big fan of safaris (meaning “travels” in suahili) but Noemi insists and she is right at the end. It is great to see all these big animals from close. I hope the photos will come out good, though I have to select a very few out of the very many… Oh well same story as always with the digital medium…

After Kruger, we try Graskop and Sabie. There we stay in Billy Bongo’s Backpackers. Garth is a good host and helps us find our way back to Jo’Burg. Also there we hike some 12km and we have the chance to see four great waterfalls (amongst other wonders of nature the previous day).

We are now in South Africa, more posts to come and I hope I find time to post those photos too! Regards, Mat.

So I have seen one of the most beautiful beaches so far… it was low season so that helped all the “vulgarities” of the civilazion near it not seem so big. Kendwa Rocks is actually a bungalow/hut place in the north beach of Zanzibar. A bar/restaurant also operates there. Going to the east of the beach more bars/hotels have opened with the years. And many more will.

I was tempted to take the scuba-diving course/dive but at the end, like so many times so far, I decided not to spend on “services” and spend on practical things such as food and drinks. The fish there is excellent. Lobsters are big and kingfish and tuna are very popular plates. If you ever go to Zanzibar try fish.

My friend Abu though was right on one thing (see previous post); it is a bit expensive, not so much for european standards but definetely for the locals. I guess they know better beaches and they do not need the accomodation so…

In any case, I had a very relaxed time, and for 3 days it felt like I had a postcard to look at every time I left my room. I have to say though, that Tulum beach in Yucatan, Mexico is very much better. Carribean VS Indian ocean you see.

After this it was back to Dar Es Salaam. From there a flight to J’Burg. Let’s see how this will work but to be honest I will try to stay out of the city. A safari in Kruger park is very likely. Stay tuned until the next post.

Mat

So here I am in Stone Town, Zanzibar… got tired of Dar Es Salaam and thought I’d jump on an island. And a good choice too!

For many a tourist destination, a scuba-diving paradise. For me, well, once more all about meeting people and walking a lot. This time I got some nice pictures! Its characteristic are the small alleys that will most definitely get you lost, even if the city centre itself is very small. In the old days it was a checkpoint for the slave trade happening in the Indian ocean. The slave trade market is now a monument and the whole city itself is under the appendices of the World Heritage.

The people are nice, open and friendly but once more as November is low season, they try to get the most profit out of you. I found the exception once more, a guy called Abu, who he let me stay in his house for one night. Thanks Abu, and once more thanks the Couchsurfing site

Tomorrow I will be going to the North beach, which is supposed to be kind of a party place. Abu says that he never went there… “what for?” he adds. The only reason I’ll be going there is that it was recommended by a guy I met in Nairobi. Let’s see what the future holds. Until then… hasta luego!

During my stay in Kenya, I always heard that there is only one good bus company to go from Nairobi to Dar Es Salaam; if it was your first time traveling this trip that is. This was Scandinavia. It resulted difficult to find it though, as they had moved a bit outside the city centre. So I did not bother and used another company (Sabco). For 22 euros I would be in Dar Es Salaam directly (or that’s what I thought).

To cut the story short, it took me 22 hours to get there. It makes you wonder though… Cheap transport in Africa might be a bit dodgy and all but the roads remain the same. On the other hand side, the people are much more sociable in cheap transport. Depending what you want, you choose. The roads though… THEY remain the same. It was quite an experience when we got lost in some Masai lands just after the borders. The driver did not want to use the main road as too many cars were parked in the middle of it. So we improvised. After nearly destroying the tires and the chassis we got on the “main” road.

In other anecdotes I met a guy working in the same bus that used to be a sailor, so he was cursing in Greek to me for fun and a Rasta friend of Stephen’s (see Nairobi – The Eastlands post), who was giving the tickets out. He also gave me a reference to go visit a reggae station in Dar Es Salaam. This guy actually made me trust the company and travel with them in the first place.

In the course of the journey I socialized with various people and they were all nice and super polite to me. When I finally show the Scandinavia bus in the last stop we made before Dar, I was happy that I had taken Sabco. It was full of tourists and even if it was a bit more comfortable, I would still travel with Sabco again (saved me some money there too).

Now I am in Dar Es Salaam, where I live in a friend’s house (Dave’s). It was six years when I last saw him, we were flat mates in the UK during our student years… I will be based here until the 23rd and then off to J’Burg. In the meantime I am planning on visiting Zanzibar and maybe some other smaller islands on the north of Dar. I will include a trekking if possible, I just have to inform myself more on Tanzania.

In any case I will keep you posted. Until then, have a good life you all!

PS: Oh… one thing I really valued… even if organisation and discipline are not big with Africans, the solidarity and how they help each other in difficult situations are exemplary to us “Europeans”.