THE THREE ALPHA TRAVEL

Malaysia (Borneo) had not stricken me as much as Indonesia did but the need to go there was imminent – this time I was to arrive in the peninsular part and spend some days in its capital; Kuala Lumpur. The reason was that we needed a Visa for Vietnam and the nearest embassy to Indonesia was there.

The classic KL photo, the Petronas Twin Towers

I was told that Kuala Lumpur was worth a visit but as always when it comes to big cities (and especially capitals) I did not believe it 100%. After nearly a week of being here I have to say that I really like it! The main reason is that it is easy to walk around it – even the presence of cars and traffic is not that bad. In many places the trees are of the primary forest that used to be there before the city (big old fellows hanging over you). It has a nature reserve, a very nice and highly educational National Museum, embassies from all over the world (useful when travelling) and much more that make it a great brake when passing from countries like Indonesia to the north, or the other way round.

In Wednesday 22th of July we’ll be flying to Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam. Kuala Lumpur was definitely a very good handful of “civilization” and a re-fueling station and I would more than recommend it to anybody that wants to visit.

… I was so between doing it or not the last months. I researched the market in Bangkok, Borneo, Singapore, Australia and Indonesia but it seemed that it was never the right time to make the buy. Until now. Since July 16th I will be travelling with a new companion, the Lenovo S10-2 Ideapad!

Lenovo Ideapad S10-2

Believe you me it was not an easy decision. To start with I was to add 1.2 kilograms in my backpack; something being on the contrary to my trying to travel light. But then I thought I will soon have to do without my Lonely Planet guide – to be honest I had enough of it – so that will make up for it likely.

Now I promise to write up on the blog more, upload those photos faster and well… erm… keep in touch more? We’ll see

Jack Kerouac’s “Dharma Bums” was to come… and it did come… and I will probably read it many more times too.

Beat Generation’s greatest gives an insight to what happened after the years of “On The Road”; his most famous book. In the character list of protagonists many of his famous friends are included; Gary Snyder, Neal Cassady, Allen Ginsberg and Peter Orlovsky (between others). What a cast and what a story…

The Dharma Bums Deluxe Edition

It is one of those books that once you read it, you are not the same person. Or better said, once you read it, your mind runs faster than you could ever do. And mine did. It made me think of my next journey and of the way of travelling. It made me think of travelling lighter (even lighter), spending less and concentrating on one place at a time – instead of being on many places for less time. The story does not matter I think. What matters is that the “backpack revolution” Kerouac is talking about is but to be saved. Can we travellers change the world? Can we change ourselves for this matter?

When the book was out, the critics did not like it at all – even if Kerouac was getting fame at the time. His way of writing is what i loved. Not structured and with harsh traditions it is a bit like the way I write – when I do – in my notepad. Who cares about form when you can transfer the message? All in all it is a great book but for dreamers it can be seriously addictive I found. I shall not read another Kerouac book as long as I am travelling – I might stay on the road for ever….

It happens when you have liked a place… and in this case Indonesia was the place to come back. Having visited Bali and Java, I “convinced” Noemi that Sumatra was perfect as the next destination. On arrival on Kuala Lumpur I found out that not all EU citizens have the same rights in Asia. Noemi as a Spanish citizen had to buy a flight out of Indonesia but I was OK without it (as I remembered correctly from my first visit)! So we did buy a ticket out to Kuala Lumpur again from Medan once more. Sumatra is huge (the 6th biggest island in the world) so having to fly from Medan (which was the point of entrance as well) would limit us and make us not reach all the way down south (pity). Oh well, in any case Sumatra was waiting for us!

Bukit Lawang jungle fever

First stop Medan (obviously) and from there the village of Bukit Lawang. It was a very nice surprise to be there. Amin and Rinto were our guides in what has been a full day trekking in the jungle of the village. We were lucky enough to see six orangutans in the wild too! The village was recently destroyed by floods but the resilience of the people living there, made them rebuild the most of it in 2 years! We had a great time and all I can hope for its future is less deforestation (by a company called London Sumatra Indonesia TBK) and more support for the rangers and the national park (well I said it but it sounds more like a prayer than anything else…).

Gunung Sibayak

Next stop; Berastagi and its volcanoes. To reach the town we had to backtrack to Medan and take another bus to there. In Berastagi we stayed in Losmen Sibayak, one of the few option in the noisy but rather cosy town. To climb Gunung Sibayak (Indonesia’s most accessible volcano as we were told) we had to try twice! The first day we took the wrong bus, but we did find some hot springs and soaked our bodies in it. The second time we had learned our lesson and took off the right point. The overall impression is a moderate one – if you have seen other volcanoes in Indonesia. Also the road up is mainly made for cars! After saying goodbye to Bonnie (our new friend in Berastagi) we would head out for Lake Toba – the biggest lake in Indonesia.

Danau Toba - Tomok

From Berastagi we go to Kabanjahe. From there it is a 3-hour journey to Simpang Raya and from there 1 hour to Parapat. From there and with a ferry to Tuk Tuk we were in the island of Samosir – the island in the middle of Lake (or Danau) Toba. There we just had to take a rest and staying the most of the days in Merlyn Homestay we did just that. Just in front of the lake, we would swim, walk, rent a bike (even if it did not last long – not used to it) and visit villages (like Tomok and Ambarita) and markets. What’s specific about the area is it’s Batak traditions and people with their strangely hatched houses and their beatiful music. I should not forget to mention that in Merlyn Guesthouse I ate the best BBQed fish (with some Batak sauce) in years!!! Thanks for that Rio.

Gunung Merapi - 2968 m

The transition to Bukittinggi was not that easy. We arrived to Parapat (the port of the lake) midday but the bus did not go until 22:30! So we wandered around for a bit, drinking a lot of… tea. After 15 hours we get there and we check in at Rajawali Homestay, owned by a German expat having married an Indonesian for the last 9 years. The main attraction here, the Merapi volcano, or else Gunung Merapi. We had heard a lot about it in Berastagi and we got ready to do it! The advice of Ulrich (Rajawali’s owner) was to do it Saturday so we hadn’t had to pay for a guide. The reason; many people are climbing it, mainly students and local groups. So we did. Along with us came a French couple and Jean, another French guy. I have talked before about French people always keeping me company when climbing volcanoes in Indonesia and I think this time I just proved myself right! We start climbing at 21:30 and reach near the top at about 02:00. There we have to make a fire as we freeze to death – clothes soaking wet. In the meantime we are followed by some Indonesians that protect and guide us at all times! How helpful they were! At about 04:00 in the morning we are up but the first light is not until 06:15! So we all hug together trying to keep warm. When the light comes it is beautiful… Besides the volcano, we visit a local traditional wedding party (more of a lunch) and walk a railway line from Padang Pajang to Limbau Anai. Very good times indeed…

Mount Tuju

Next and last stop before flying out of Sumatra (;(), is Kayu Aro or Kerinci as it is called in general. Kerinci is another volcano, this time of 3805 meters of altitude. We arrive there after 8 hours and check in – after finding it in the dark – at one of the most lovely and homely places I have been on this travel. Mrs Lucia, a catholic Indonesian is a great host and a most excellent cook. Gunung Kerinci is not meant to be climbed by us though. We are both feeling a bit ill and I have some infection on my right foot (which is now perfectly OK) so we just eat and rest well. Our last day there I climb Mount Tuju, an ex-crater now-lake of an easy ascent (about 3 hours). Here I also finish my book (“Dharma Bums”). On 12th of July we take a night bus to Padang and from there we fly to Medan. There we would stay one day and take the next morning flight to Kuala Lumpur….

Once more, having seen a bit of Sumatra, I have to say; Indonesia is a great place to be. Terima kasih banyak!!!

The second and last outdated post from Thailand…

After the east coast party island mashup, we went to Krabi. We were told by a Spanish guy we met that we SHOULD try to spent some days in Railey beach, 40 minutes from Krabi town. So we did.

Railey beach...

Arriving in Railey beach we were told that there is – except of the main one – another secret one, accessed by climbing a 20 minute up and down rock formation. So we did. With the backpacks it wasn’t that easy but when we arrived we saw it was worth it all the way! Small deserted place, 3-4 bars/restaurants by the beach and a beautiful scenery all around. We had arrived. The highlight here must have been that we kayaked for about 10 km to the opposite Poda beach and back – bliss! (and a bit of a challenge there for a change)

Bamboo Island

Being there the name Ko Phi Phi was getting bigger and bigger in our minds. We knew about it; one of those things that are popular but you have to see because of their sheer beauty. We gave it a chance on a one day tour including; Money Bay, Loh Samah Bay, Pileh Bay, Viking Cave, Phi Phi Don, Hin Klarng and Bamboo Island. The famous beach of the film “The Beach” was there as exotic as you could imagine – attracting therefore a lot of non-exotic people. Snorkelling in clear waters and generally chilling did it for the day.

After this we were to take a boat taxi, go to the closest beach; Ao Nang and from there back to Krabi – this time to the airport for our flight to Kuala Lumpur and then to Medan, Sumatra in Indonesia!

Will I see Thailand again?

What a pleasing read! I always knew about the book and I was happy that I had the chance to read it. It was written in 1922 and only published in the USA in 1951 – I wonder why…

The book cover

The book handles the story of the founder of Buddhism beautifully and as everything coming from Buddhist philosophy not once I felt I was reading something with relation to religion. Hesse tackles problems every thinking man will some time find himself wondering about. Spiritual beings; is man one of them?And if he is how does he reach his personal heaven? Does he have to be? I like the conclusion that everything is in the mind. The world is the mind and your world therefore is your mind. Good VS bad acts were always – so far – dictated by religions. Guiltiness was their judge but Hesse and the philosophic background on where he moves suggests something else.

Things are really simple. The way to simplicity though is not. Coming back to the book as such; it can be read many times. Its tight coherence makes it perfect for writing basis. Writing of your thoughts and the beginning of endless existential conversations. Read it but be sure to have a friend and a beer beside when you finish it. You will make the most out of both for sure!

Take it easy ’till the next time!